Meeting Mr. Robert Frobisher (hopping with joy!)

Many years ago, I read one of the most difficult books I've ever had to read in my life. Cloud Atlas by David Mitchell. It took me more than a month to finish it because the story was complicated, the presentation of the story was different like those Matryoshka dolls from Russia, the words were awfully difficult for me in some parts, especially during the story set in the 19th century and the future...

But, I stuck with it because I simply loved the characters that Mitchell created and the premise of the story that souls travel across centuries and places to be together again. He rides on that feeling of deja vu that you get when you meet someone new, as though you've met them before in another time and place...the only memory that ties you to this person is a familiar song (the Cloud Atlas Sextet) that keeps haunting you day and night as you try to remember the connection you have with this other person.

OMG, they've made this book into a movie! This just came out of the blue to hit me this morning on the news...Where was I all this while? How come I had no idea about this? Maybe it's better this way...not knowing means that I never had to wait with torture for the move to finish!

Now, let me pick up the book and dust the cover again. I'll be meeting Mr. Robert Frobisher next month and I've got to look my best!

(Below, my two entries about the book from my now-defunct blog) 

Saturday, May 21, 2005

A weekend with David Mitchell

Am reading David Mitchell's Cloud Atlas which I got for a bargain RM8 at the recent Times Bookstore Warehouse Sale recently. Thanks to the self-confessed bookaholic for the recommendation.

It's actually 6 short stories in one (or the way Mitchell frames it, inside each other) and starts out with the journal writings of Adam Ewing from the 19th century detailing his passage on a ship travelling from Sydney to California.

The print in the book is very tiny and the 19th century English language (in The Pacific Journal of Adam Ewing) was a little difficult for me to wade through -- these made me doubt if I could ever complete my reading of this book. To borrow a line from Mitchell himself, "After ten pages I felt (Mitchell) was reading me, not I him..."! Heheh!

But, A.S. Byatt's review of the novel in Guardian said, "David Mitchell entices his readers on to a rollercoaster, and at first they wonder if they want to get off. Then - at least in my case - they can't bear the journey to end." Yes, I was thinking of getting off and chucking the book in my ever-growing pile of half-read novels (keeping him company would be Dan Brown's Angels and Demons, Kathy Reich's Deja Dead and Peter Mayle's Tojours Provence).

Being in a ring, wrestling with difficult authors was not my idea of a lazy weekend. But I wasn't going to give up, I guess, probably because I wanted to possess that feeling again, the one Byatt described...not being able to bear the end of the journey! I was curious -- how good was this book that it made someone say that?

I'm now happily into the second story in the collection, Letters from Zedelghem, and already in love with the protagonist, Robert Frobisher -- wily, supremely talented (in music), kind-hearted (he charmed me with his croissant-dispensing act), and suspiciously bisexual! Yummy character!

Somewhere in the middle of this, Frobisher writes to his friend, "A half-read book is a half-finished love affair." Looks like the man himself has spoken to me!

Okay, David, I hear ya.

 

Monday, July 04, 2005

Floating on a cloud with Robert Frobisher

Some stories make you wish that they were true. That the people really existed. That the things they accomplished were real. That the stories were not just fiction, made-up tales in the heads of genius writers.

If I had a wish right now, I would ask to be taken back in time, into a make-believe world, to meet Robert Frobisher playing his composition of Cloud Atlas Sextet for an intimate audience of eight -- Rufus Sixsmith from 1931; Vyvyan Ayrs; Timothy Cavendish and Veronica Costello; the fabricant Sonmi 451; Eva, Empress of Bruges; the Prescient Meronym; and me.

Yes, this is still about David Mitchell's Cloud Atlas. Just arrived at the final line in the final page. It took me a month to get here. Reading it was like scaling a gruelling 10,000 steps and then, past the halfway-point, was like zipping down effortlessly on a mountain bike. After getting past Sloosha's Crossin' an Ev'rythin' After, the stories simply told themselves to me like I deserved it for sticking with it through those pages of tiny font.

Sloosha's Crossin' took forever to finish but when Sharon (who introduced the book in her blog) told me to just skip some parts, I didn't have the heart to do that. I wanted to read every word, understand every slang, picture the almost barren world that Mitchell created after "The Fall" of Civilisation. I can be quite a determined reader when I put my heart to it, and quite a lazy one when I don't.

I must confess, one of the reasons I stayed the course was the thought of meeting Robert Frobisher again in the later pages of the book. I just fell madly in love with the deliciously naughty, cheeky, Robert Frobisher from his croissant-dispensing moment, and was enchanted by his character and demeanor (and yes, his adoration for Sixsmith peaked my interests too) -- maybe because he was the artistic type, a talented musician and composer, maybe because he had a streak of the devil in him, maybe because he could be charming and acerbic in turns.

Oooh, and that music -- his music -- which Luisa Rey describes as "riverlike, spectral, hypnotic" and in which she could not help but stand "entranced, as if living in a stream of time." Like Luisa Rey, I feel that I "have to own this music too. I have to. You know what it's like..." With a title like Cloud Atlas Sextet -- a beautiful, ethereal name -- it just begs to be listened... and I so wish that it was real.

I have absolutely no idea how Cloud Atlas Sextet sounds like...its time signature, its timbre and tempo, its chords, its rhythm, its sentiments and feelings. I just know that it evokes feelings in people, it shakes loose memories of the past, and conjures visions of the future. To my ear, it begins with a crescendo of chords that mirrors Frobisher's own ecstasy for the beginnings of his musical inspirations, and ends as despairingly, with long-drawn bars of largo pianissimo, as his final moments in life.

 

And for those of you who read this far, a special treat, an extended trailer of the movie and special news story.

The Road to Old Terengganu

The deep seas off Terengganu may be rich in oil and gas reserves, making the east coast state among the region’s leaders in the oil, gas and petrochemical industry, but some argue that its real treasures are all found on the mainland.

With a documented history reaching as far back as the 2nd century, Terengganu certainly has accumulated a wealth of heritage influenced by the Langkasuka and Srivijaya kingdoms it was part of, and the Majapahit, Khmer and Chinese empires it traded with. Despite modern developments, the old Terengganu still remains – and the best way to explore it? Via Federal Route 3 – approaching a hundred years old, but still one of Malaysia’s most scenic highways.

At 739km long, Route 3 runs alongside the coast of four Malaysian states from Johor Bahru, Johor, in the south of the peninsula, through Pahang and Terengganu before ending in Rantau Panjang, Kelantan. From here, it goes on as part of the Asian Highway Network that connects Asia to the upper reaches of Europe.

It’s ironic that 20 years after it was built by the British for economic reasons, Route 3 would bring the ultimate fall of the Allied Forces when, in 1941, Japanese troops used it to swiftly advance south on bicycles during the Battle of Malaya.

Having served for economic and political purposes in the past, it must be said that Route 3 today is best suited for more leisurely pursuits. The relatively flat and straight two-lane single carriageway road provides an easy, scenic drive. Traveling northwards, the South China Sea with its glittering blue waves in the midday sun would be your constant companion – and distraction – on the east.  Some sections of the highway run alongside lush pockets of mangrove forests along the coastal estuaries.

There’s no escaping the countryside charm of Terengganu, even as the bigger towns try to shed its pastoral image with concrete buildings and foreign franchise retailers. Fishing villages just on the outskirts of towns speak of the population’s time-honoured source of income; fishermen bring their boats ashore on public beaches; chickens and cows roam about freely along main thoroughfares; while many of the wooden homes here are still built on stilts in a compound of coconut trees.
Even the stretch of road from Kerteh to Paka – where Malaysia’s oil and gas refinery activities are based – makes for excellent night driving. As the sun sets, the huge complex of pipes, steel tanks, smoke stacks and gas flutes lights up spectacularly like a space station about to launch a rocket ship.

Chukai
A great way to get to know Terengganu is through its food and what better place to start than in Chukai (in the district of Kemaman), among the first towns you encounter along the Terengganu section of Route 3 northwards. Kim Wah (also known as Kin To Wah) Restaurant is a spartan corner establishment on Jalan Masjid with an even simpler menu, selling nothing else but chicken rice. It opens daily from 11 am to 2:30 pm, but its plates of roast chicken over rice with a side of soy sauce and chili dip often run out by 1pm.

One of the enduring legacies of the Chinese community in Malaysia is the kopitiam. Usually established in smaller towns, but increasingly franchised in urban centres, these old-style cafés are famous for their Asian coffee (usually thicker and more bitter than its European version) and charcoal-toasted bread generously slathered with butter and kaya, a coconut cream-based jam. Kemaman’s very own – Hai Peng Kopitiam on Jalan Sulaimani – has been enjoying a good reputation since the 1930s. Besides the toast, their other specialty is the typical Terengganu dish nasi dagang – beautifully steamed rice with a serving of rich tuna curry wrapped in banana leaf parcels.

In the evenings, join the locals at Pantai Geliga beach for traditional east coast tea-time treats of satar (fish cakes wrapped in banana leaves, skewered in threes, and grilled over red-hot charcoal), keropok lekor (fish crackers) and sotong celup tepung (deep fried squid). Down it all with fresh coconut juice, served straight from the husk!

Kuala Dungun
About an hour’s drive north of Chukai is Kuala Dungun, a town that once enjoyed the wealth of its iron ore mining activities. Nothing much of its glorious past remains except for the nondescript concrete pillar in the sea that some say was part of the railway line that transported iron from Bukit Besi to Kuala Dungun. About 30 km inland, in Bukit Besi, are a few more of these legacies – the stockpile buildings, tunnels and chimneys used during the tin-mining days – left by the Japanese who first discovered the riches within the area.

Seemingly bereft of any tourist attractions, Kuala Dungun is an unlikely stop for those passing through Terengganu if not for Tanjong Jara Resort. Despite its modest kampung location, the resort, part of the luxury YTL property chain, has gained a worldwide reputation for its unique architecture and welcome. Taking a cue from its east coast residents, Tanjong Jara Resort has adopted the spirit of gentle and humble Malay service and hospitality. Its “Unmistakably Malay” tagline is reflected throughout the resort – the Malay palace-like architecture, the local menu which features the region’s unique cuisine, and the age-old Malay treatments at its award-winning spa.

The district of Dungun, especially the beaches at Rantau Abang, used to be the calling place of giant leatherback turtles who return yearly to the beaches here to lay their eggs. In the 1970s, as many as 1,000 leatherback landings were reported but these nesting giants are a rare sight these days due to modern developments and human interference; however it is still possible to view green turtle landings in other parts of Dungun. Tanjong Jara Resort has a turtle watching programme exclusively for guests at Kerteh. The oil-refinery town of Terengganu may be an unlikely port of call for these nesting turtles, but the midnight trips arranged with the local fisheries department are highly recommended. Complement the experience beforehand with a trip to the Turtle Information Centre in Rantau Abang just 15 km north of Tanjong Jara Resort to learn about the miraculous journey made by these gentle marine creatures to nest and the subsequent fight for survival by their young hatchlings.

Kuala Terengganu
After the tranquil panoramas of Kemaman, Dungun and Marang, the bustle of capital city Kuala Terengganu takes a while to get used to. Pasar Payang is the central market where all manner of trade is conducted. It’s the place to get your fish and chicken, fruits and veggies, dried fish crackers, some fashionable wear, souvenirs, even your gold jewellery. It would almost be a sin to leave town without at least purchasing the signature east coast fabric, the batik, here. Or indulge in the Terengganu brocade – a textile of royal origins made using fine gold and silk threads.

Spend a quick afternoon on the Terengganu River Cruise, from the Islamic Civilisation Park jetty, to learn about the history and development of the area. Then, hop over to Pulau Duyong to walk within the walls of an old fortress. Built in the 1920s, Kota Lama Duyong is a traditional Terengganu house with Greek Corinthian elements in its columns and Islamic influences in the decorative woodcarvings.

Penarik
Continue northwards from Kuala Terengganu and you will soon reach Penarik in the district of Setiu. This serene fishing village has a unique geographical landscape – a narrow isthmus of casuarinas and coconut groves flanked by the Setiu River on the west and the South China Sea on the east. It is the setting of Terrapuri Heritage Village, part conservation project, part boutique guest house, and on-going 20-year labour of love by local entrepreneur, Alex Lee, to preserve the authentic traditions of the Malay Terengganu house.

Here, guests are accommodated in hundred-year old dwellings, each one personally sourced by Lee from various parts of Terengganu, dismantled, carefully restored and assembled again on this piece of beach-front land in Kampung Mangkuk.  Rich in history and displaying the refined carpentry and design skills of highly-respected master craftsmen, each of these 29 houses may be the last legacies of a fast-diminishing Terengganu culture and heritage. The hospitality by locals employed from nearby villages is genuine and unpretentious – at the end of your stay, you’ll be bidding goodbye to friends and family instead of service staff.

Beaches
With a coastline that runs for 244 km, Terengganu’s beaches are some of the best and prove to be a great distraction to those driving along Route 3. There’s no point resisting its allure; turn off from the main road anywhere and cherish the serendipitous discoveries not marked in any tourist map.

Teluk Bidara in Dungun is a bay near Tanjong Jara Resort where one can explore the cave and lighthouse on Tanjung Api Hill at low tide. Kuala Abang and Kemasik beaches have some interesting sea-side rock formations on which to perch and enjoy the miles of blue, while Penarik tears you in two with the river wetlands on one side and gorgeous beach on the other, and the shade of casuarinas and coconut palms in between the two.

The long Terengganu coastline may be inviting but beware of the strong under-currents in certain places. Instead, pull a chair beach-side and munch on keropok lekor as you take in the views of the nearby islands, listen to the waves breaking on the shore and fantasise of owning a beach-front property here.

When to go:
The state of Terengganu observes Sunday to Thursday as working days while Friday and Saturday are public holidays. Banks, government offices and most businesses in Terengganu operate from Sunday to Thursday.

Also, it’s worth checking out the weather before going. Terengganu experiences heavier rainfall and flooding in certain areas during the monsoon season when the north-east winds blow between November and January. Although the perception is that it rains every day during this period, there are perfectly sunny days, too, in between wet spells. Still, trips to the islands are not advised during this period due to uncertain sea conditions. On the bright side, the monsoon season is considered low season, and travellers get better deals on hotels.

Driving tips:
Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Terengganu (approx. 455 km): Take the Karak Highway, then the East Coast Expressway, and exit at Jabor toll. Continue towards Kuala Terengganu on Federal Route 3 via Chukai town in Kemaman.

Singapore/Johor Bahru to Kuala Terengganu (approx. 562 km): Take Federal Route 3 to Kota Tinggi, Mersing, Kuala Rompin, Pekan, Kuantan and Kuala Terengganu.

Penang to Kuala Terengganu (approx. 460 km): Take Federal Route 4 via Grik to Jertih, then turn into Federal Route 3 to Kuala Terengganu.

Flights:
Fly to Kuala Terengganu Airport from Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) via Malaysia Airlines or AirAsia; or from Subang Airport (Kuala Lumpur) via Firefly.

More info:
Check out an online brochure on Terengganu (and the east coast region) here: http://www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my/intl_en/ebrochure/pdf/8c26ea7d

Low Tech Weekend

That's how I would describe our experience at Bukit Tinggi last weekend. No TV, no internet, no computer from Friday evening to Sunday noon. I think Zane, Moses and Mary survived it well. So did I.

In fact, it was quite blissful and peaceful. We had a great view of the jungle and the pure sky, weather was cool and pleasant. We swam in the Janda Baik river, had meals at small huts, home-cooked foods of delicious masak tempoyak and asam pedas rebus. Admired the beauty of jungle ginger flowers and metallic green dragonflies (yes, they exist!).

At night, we sat out on the balcony of our little apartment and enjoyed the fresh air and the sounds of nature -- crickets and nocturnal birds. In the shadows of the night, we made out some stars, overhead planes and bungalows within the jungle.

We let the kids snack on their favourites -- cocoa crunch, crisps and other not-so-healthy stuff...it was a holiday, so we gave 'em a break...heheh...

Wishing for another round of this bliss.

The Letter Writer

Work sucks at the moment. I was driving home last Friday evening and all the accumulated frustrations and disappointments of doing ad-hoc writing assignments hit me as I was making the turn into my housing area.

I can honestly get lost -- in a nice, addictive kind of way -- in my writings. I enjoy crafting a sentence, finding just the right word to embody a feeling, reflecting on the subtle nuances that each word lends to the entire sentence. Nobody else cares though. People at the office just want the work done as proof to the Big Boss up there that "Hey, look...see...this is proof that we have done our job to publicise your megalomaniacal dreams!"...Next!

I wish I could say that I derive great satisfaction from my job. Sadly that's not the case. I am Miss Emergency...whenever there's a last minute job to be done, I am called to the scene. Maybe I am getting good at doing things fast. Credit that to being a woman, a wife, a mom, a writer and everything else in between. With all these roles, you just gotta learn to make full use of your time and breeze through everything.

I've always been a conscientious worker so for me to be callous about my job these days is pretty unsettling. It's just not me. But then, I think of all the other roles that I am, as a wife, a mother, a daughter, a sister, and I am reminded that I am appreciated more in those roles and within those social and family spheres. I'm better off investing my heart and soul in those people than at work.

I hate to make this place as a ranting hole. So I'll just stop here. Yup, this is just to say that I wish I could spend my time doing meaningful writing work...I still harbour that dream of being the Letter Writer in a modern age of truncated text messages.

Letters: Risau

"Risau
melekat di hati
enggan melayang
pergi.

Dahi berkerutan
melayan kerisauan.

Bagai sepucuk surat
dilipat-lipat
diselitkan di celah
hati."

From 12 Oct 2005.

Accompanying note: Feeling worried and scared for Zane. Suddenly feeling this way. Thought about how I felt when Dad had his heart attack. The prospect of loss. I don't want to lose Zane to his cigarettes. Feel so afraid that our lives together might not be long.

Letters series

Thinking of starting a "Letters" series of writings where I post the letters, sms-es, words, etc. exchanged between me and people in my life.

Here's a first, because it's short:

"Semoga kita dapat bersua kembali. Di pulau atau bukit biarlah...asalkan ada mangsa untuk diburu! He!He."

-- by Ravi Varma a/l Nambiar aka Ravina, a woman in a man's body. My dear Editor friend from Karangkraf who is now MIA in my life. She wrote this in my journal as we were making our way by boat from Pulau Redang to Terengganu. It was the end of our 2 night holiday with a bunch of other friends, during which Ravina went "a-hunting" in her wig and mini skirt and all! Haha!